Ranking the best grocery store fried chicken in Los Angeles

“You know who has really good fried chicken?”

I couldn’t tell if my uncle Bruce was looking for a real answer, or if he let me in on the secret.

Uncle Bruce is a good cook. He introduced me to the wonder of twice-baked potatoes. It was at that Thanksgiving table that I realized that a roasted turkey doesn’t have to be dry. So when Uncle Bruce told me he found “really good fried chicken” in the most unlikely of places, I was really excited.

“Go to Albertsons on the corner of West and Artesia in Gardena,” he said.

I closed my eyes. Can I go to Albertsons Market? Or should it be that?

“That place,” he said. “True.”

Behind the frosted glass of Gardena Albertsons Deli, I found mountains of golden fried chicken, fried chicken, fried wings and tenders. A woman holding a pair of long knees pulled off the wings, legs and feet and dropped them into a container. She informed me that with a few days notice, I could deliver 50 pieces, 100 pieces or more for the party. When might I need that much chicken?

Then I had a nervous breakdown in the parking lot, sitting on the wing in the middle.

Wrap holiday turkey in butter-drenched cheese. Try dried apples. No, a wet spine. Use Baster. Fry the meat with butter. Start the bird on the butt, then turn it over. Forget all that. I serve grocery store fried chicken for Thanksgiving.

Judge, if you must, but as we near the end of a dumpster fire of a year, something’s got to give. Why serve a dish that requires so much work to eat, just because it’s a tradition?

Sometimes, the best fried chicken is found in your nearest market. If you’re willing to travel a little farther, here’s a ranking of fried chicken from 10 grocery store chains in and around Los Angeles. And before you ask, I went to Erwin. Despite three employees claiming otherwise, and multiple visits, I could not find a fried chicken bone in the hot bar.

Most market chains will allow you to order your chicken in bulk. I will be serving up a bucket of my favorite grocery store chicken tipped onto a fancy serving platter for the upcoming holidays. In the center of the table is a boat full of homemade cooking and crystal hot sauce.

How did my uncle’s Albertsons chicken rank among the competition? Read on to find out.

10. Super A food

Order fried chicken from Super A Foods in Highland Park.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

Although aesthetically pleasing, with a rich, golden color, this covering clung to the flesh like a soft, moist blanket. The chicken below was narrow. Very tough to taste, with big strips of dry meat. Price: $7.99 for four pieces.

9. Best food

Four pieces of fried chicken from Superior Grocers in Highland Park.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

The dark bits of spice that the chicken had left were promising. Can I taste sharp, woody black pepper? Was I about to go to market chicken gold? The crust was crisp enough, and seasoned fairly well. But the chicken ate the rubber, as if it had been cooled and reheated, then reheated. Price: $6 for four pieces.

8. Ralphs

A small order of fried chicken from Ralph’s Market.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

This chicken had a belly lining that was almost powdered all over the surface. But even the best drying and frying techniques cannot save the bottom of the chicken. The meat was bone dry and tasteless. I cut pieces of their skin and enjoyed it as a snack. I shredded the rest of the meat and threw it in the middle of the casserole, where it belonged. Price: $5 for four pieces.

7. Vince

A paper bag filled with eight pieces of fried chicken from Van’s Market.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

Oh, Van, you are so close to greatness. Just short of being what I hoped it would be. The chicken tasted like it had been dipped in batter twice, with a thick, crispy crust and a supernal crunch. It was literally wet to the point of dripping when I took a bite. Then a wall of salt was so hard it burned my tongue. I took a second bite just to be sure, then fell off the chicken leg. Maybe it was just that group. It was the only one I had, so the rating stands. Price: $10.99 for eight pieces.

A chicken leg from Gilson’s Market in West Hollywood.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

6. Gilson’s

The chicken from this delicious grocery store looks like it was pulled out of a Norman Rockwell painting. It is a perfect example of a chicken, covered in a yellow bronze carapace with a rough surface. The meat was juicy all over, under a shell that held its own, even after the short drive home. But it has no real flavor or seasoning and requires plenty of hot sauce for optimal consumption. And for that, it lands near the middle of the pack. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.

5. Vallarta

Fried chicken from Vallarta supermarkets.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

Vallarta chicken is almost flawless, if you plan to eat it within minutes of leaving the store. As with all chickens, I took a few bites just seconds after receiving the bag or box, trying to eat each piece fresh. The rough terrain along the Vallarta ridge meant hills and potholes. The meat was the perfect balance of salty and sweet. It was the best fried chicken for five minutes, then collapsed into a pile of fat and meat. The flavor remained pleasing even in its reduced form. Price: $26.99 for 24 pieces.

4. Stater Bros.

Four pieces of fried chicken from Stater Bros. Market.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

The market advertises something called Cleo and Leo Chicken at the deli counter. It is proudly displayed on signage and take-out boxes. The name is derived from Cleo and Leo Statter, two brothers who started Statter Bros. Markets in 1936. Village and Leo chickens have beautifully crisp, delicate, crispy skin. It goes through the meat instead of keeping it, leaving some pieces with fun, and others without the skin. Your hands will be glistening with fat, and your bosom will be covered with crusts, but you will be happy. My only problem with this chicken was the texture of the meat. It had a soft, almost artificial quality that was noticeable about the two pieces. If it doesn’t sound like a deal breaker, invite Cleo and Leo to your party. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.

3. Food 4 less

Eight pieces of fried chicken from Food 4 Little Market.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

The woman behind the deli counter at the Food 4 Come Market on North Fair Oaks Avenue in Pasadena beamed proudly when I ordered the chicken. “Yeah, I just made it up,” she said. “It’s nice and warm.” She handed it to a box covered like a gingerbread house, the bottom and sides radiating heat. The chicken appeared to be double-stacked, with a thick, crusty surface and skin. It was the kind of skin that you’d be tempted to peel open and eat yourself in the car on the way home. Some of the pieces were a little dry, but I happily devoured every piece. Price: $8.99 for eight pieces.

2. Pavilion

Four pieces of fried chicken from Pavilions Market in Pasadena.

(Jane Harris/Los Angeles Times)

The Pavilions chicken had a multi-layered crunch that set it apart from the rest. A loud, satisfying crunch, cracking from his bronze veneer. This is Grade A picnic chicken that survived in a paper bag and 12 hours in the refrigerator. If we were to award based on crunch alone, Pavilion would be the winner. The chicken was soft and tender, but the overall flavor was just shy of perfect. If someone sprinkles a little black pepper on the back, it will be a winner. Maybe take the chicken home and harvest it yourself. Price: $6.99 for four pieces.

1. Albertson

Fried chicken from Albertsons in Gardena.

(Myung Jae Chun/Los Angeles Times)

Uncle Bruce was right. I visited an additional Albertsons, but the fried chicken from this particular Gardena location was exceptional. My colleagues at the paper completed all 50 pieces that I brought to the office to photograph. The chicken is covered in an amber crust that is so delicate, it crumbles when you try to slice it. Both the coat and the meat are well-seasoned with black pepper and a medley of spices that mimic the seasoned, more savory notes of the chicken. The chicken is incredibly flavorful, with juices that flow freely when you slice into it. It’s the best fried chicken you can find at the Los Angeles market, and the only one I’ll bring to holiday gatherings. Price: $10.99 for eight pieces. $59.99 for 50 pieces.